Tuesday 22 April 2014

My Diary: 4 Nights in Shanghai! | Day 5 - One last tour of the streets, Goodbye Shanghai!



Well, this last post is a day late…

There were a total of 3 delays to my flight back to Guangzhou, so I didn’t arrive until very late (or early in the morning should I say).

So it was quite a stressful end to what was otherwise quite a relaxed day, if you exclude the rain. There wasn’t really much more I could do as I had visited all the key places in Shanghai, therefore I decided to take a long walking route through the city to see what I could see along the way; starting from my hotel and spanning across all 3 island sections of Shanghai.

9am – Breakfast at the Bund
I know I’ve visited this place far too many times, but I never get tired of it. So for my last day I thought it could be great to start my day here with a big hearty breakfast.

As I needed a place to end up on my trail I used my camera to zoom in as far as I could see, where I noticed this Starbucks located on a rather pleasant spot. So I decided my task for the day was to walk the entire city and end at that spot for a nice cup of coffee.


12pm – Another Antique Paradise!
I was checking out a rather ordinary part of the city when I glimpsed an alleyway packed with people, so I thought I’d check it out.

It turns out it was a market displaying goods from all around China! There I found a Tibetan stall where I recognised a Tibetan Singing Bowl. I had always wanted one of these! The woman on the stall showed me how to use it (I still need a lot of practice) and said it was hand crafted around 1930 in Tibet (I know this could be a lie, but I had read about them before and can identify that it has at least been hand crafted). I offered 200 Kuai, which he gladly accepted!



Here’s a sample of my attempt…



I also found a stall selling antiques from the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) where I spotted this great incense burner.




I think when I return to the UK my room will resemble a miniature Buddhist temple!



3pm – Jing’an Temple
I’d appeared to have made it to a rather modern area of the city, with many uninteresting malls and street stores blasting out the terrible cheesy dance music all the taxi drivers in China seem to listen to…
I never expected to see a huge temple, but I spotted from afar a golden roof with Dragons and so decided to take a gander.






It’s currently under repairs so much of the place was cornered off, with quite a bit of background noise.

I know in this blog I’ve posted a lot of photos from visiting temples, many of which appear quite the same in picture form - However I never cease to become bored with visiting them. Whether large or small, full of tourists of practically empty, they always serve as tranquil escapes from the chaotic streets of China. It’s always like entering a place where people seem to have gotten their life together – spending their days in a relaxing setting (and getting paid) and at the end of the day hopping onto the metro to go back to their cosy homes like the rest of us.






They’re an elaborately decorated entrance to another world, always welcoming you with the glow of gold and red interiors, the scent of incense leaking out into the surrounding streets – it’s especially enticing on a rainy day such as this.




What makes Jing’an Temple rather unique however, its setting – its right in the city centre! Walking along the corridors of gold overlooking a bustling centre of skyscrapers and beeping cars was quite an odd clash of worlds.











5pm – Coffee!


I made it! I’m at the Starbucks after an 8 hour walk in the rain, so this coffee feels especially pleasant. The views from this side of the river are certainly different, it’s more like looking over a Western city – one building even looks like the empire state from here!







5:30pm – My plane sets off when?!
Well, when I booked my flights I had to do it through Yinzi’s details, so I never received the flight time myself. However Yinzi informed me yesterday that my flight was not until 8:55pm, leaving plenty of time for chilling!

Just now though while in Starbucks Yinzi contacted me to inform me that my flight is at 7:55…I’m at least 1 ½ hours away from the airport…s**t!

So now I’m on the sardine tin which is Shanghai Metro at rush hour, hoping that I don’t miss this flight…

6:30pm – False alarm...
It turns out that my flight WAS 7:55, but Yinzi had read correctly that it was 8:55 as there was a 1 hour delay…phew! So I guess all I can do now is get to the airport and chill for a few hours.

8:55pm – A delayed delay…
Another 1 hour delay now, meaning that when I arrive in Guangzhou the metro will have shut – meaning somehow trying to converse with a taxi driver to attempt to get me home…

2am – Phew, a bus!
Well, I managed to catch a bus instead! I’m pretty tired after all that running in the rain with a 15kg bag full of antiques to get what I thought was going to be an on-time flight.

Nevermind, I am now bed-bound! Besides, it’s a good time to reflect on my journey to Shanghai.
I absolutely adore Shanghai. It’s like the New York of the Eastern world – Rich with cultural history whilst epitomising the concept of a modern city. There’s not much I can dislike about the city, other than slightly higher food and metro prices! The city has it all!





As for my first experience travelling to an unknown part of China by myself, it’s been such an illuminating experience. Sure, at times it was pretty damn difficult, but poor navigation skills aside I’d say I handled it all pretty well! Travelling with friends or family is one experience, but being just you with your thoughts from start to finish is completely different – which I think in some respects made me appreciate the sites a lot more! It was almost like having no distractions, no other things to consider other than ‘I’ll go here because I want to, and then I’ll go there because I want to’ and ‘I’m hungry now, so I will get food now’. Maybe after this experience I’ll try travelling by myself more often!  

So to conclude – If you’re ever in China, don’t miss Shanghai!


Zai’jian!


Sunday 20 April 2014

My Diary: 4 Nights in Shanghai! | Day 4 - Yuyuan Garden + the Bargain Hunt


7am
I don’t think the staff in this hotel understand the sign on my door saying (in both English and Chinese) ‘Do Not Disturb’. It was a bit of a blur as it happened so fast, but I think the cleaner lady saw quite a bit of me…

9am – Me? Being social with strangers? Never!
While waiting for Kexiong by the metro I was approached by many people, and managed to make conversation!

 A couple from Beijing asked me to take a photo for them and began talking. They told me about a tea festival nearby which was only on that day, so I tagged along and tried some odd flavours. They were a lovely pair!

Another dude asked me to take a photo for him and we began a conversation about musical instruments. I mentioned my love for the Chinese instrument GuZheng and he said he had one for sale! Man I wish I could accept, but they’re too damn big to take home.

Later I was approached by a girl who seemed rather terrified by something. It turns out she was from France, she had lost her friends and had been looking for them for over an hour. She had no credit on her mobile and had to find these people within the next 20 minutes otherwise she would miss her flight home.

So I let her use my phone and luckily her friends eventually turned up. In that time we had a pretty cool chat about what it’s like being foreign and alone in China.

It was a rather amusing chat to say I’m usually awful talking to strangers, and eventually her friends arrived. She was so grateful that she was trying to force 200 kuai into my hand, but I refused. It was one of the few times I felt I’d made a positive impact on a stranger (with my usual poor ability to make a good first impression), so I said goodbye and wished her a good flight.

It’s always a day brightener when you save someone else’s day.



11am – Yuyuan Garden
Well, it’s finally a non-rainy day! It’s not quite sunny, but in no way can I complain after yesterday.
Yuyuan garden was built in the Ming dynasty (1500s) and from viewing the photos on the internet I got rather excited. I’ve not yet seen a truly oriental garden; the Forbidden City had elements but not quite. This looks to be a really traditional space which would fuel my lust for greenery!


























2pm
After 3 hours walking around the place, I am not disappointed. The garden is truly stunning. I adored how the tree canopies formed a roof over the entire garden allowing light to rain through the leaves, releasing a warm green glow.





Furthermore, this garden is in the centre of Shanghai! It’s surrounded by 100 storey glass skyscrapers, but it so self-contained that you would never know – not a single car or shouting shop vendor can be heard from this place.

I love it here, but I better leave before we get kicked out at closing time.

4pm – The Antique Hunt
We came across a huge indoor market, 7 storeys high and packed with oriental antiques.

It turns out this is one of the biggest Antique markets in China, and to our luck it only occurs on Sundays! 

Many of the store owners are from all around China and travel early in the morning to set up shop.

There are some amazing things here, including wooden statues dating back over 1000 years! I asked the price and the man replied with a number I didn’t know (I only know 10s and 100s in Chinese) – it was 100,000 kuai (£10,000!).

I did however find some things in my price range. The first being something I’ve wanted for a long time.




It’s called a Chinese Temple Block, or more commonly known as a ‘wooden fish’. It’s played by Buddhist monks during rituals and I love the sound it makes. I’ve heard them being played at every Buddhist temple I’ve visited in China, it’s sound echoing in the large halls is a memory I cherish so it’s great to take it home with me! (They’re also usually around 600 kuai, but this guy sold it me for 150!).

The next was a surprise purchase, and a very special one.





These are old Chinese trade coins – and when I say old, I mean real old. These date back to the Qin Dynasty, the first imperial dynasty of China lasting from around 220bc to 200bc. These coins are over 2000 years old! This currency was one of the major reforms of the time to unite the China Empire in trade through a standardised coinage.

I think they’re beautiful. There are quite a few coins on sale over the internet, but most from later Tang and Han dynasties, these are special; and although I’m sure there are thousands of them still around it feels special to own such a piece of Chinese history!

Finally I bought this delightful little chest to keep my precious souvenirs in – including my ancient coins and my jade necklace!



6pm – Have I done everything in Shanghai?
It sure feels like I have! I’ve certainly done the essentials and even a few of the bazaar hidden places. So what now? I guess as it’s my last night I should take one last stroll along the Huangpu river.




Besides, now I have someone to take typical ‘I was here’ photos...



This is the amazing view from the end of the street my hotel is situated on - just a 20 second walk!

Thus concludes my final full day in Shanghai, but there’s still tomorrow - I have no idea what is left to do!




Zai’jian!